Did You Know

I enamel on 18 karat gold and use a formula with a little less copper and a little more fine silver, Not to the point that it is a white 18k, but a soft yellow gold.

The reason I do that is I’m trying to stay away from oxidation. You might know enamel over oxidation will not result in a clean sparkle of it’s true color. Cutting down just a small amount of the copper will help reduce the work of depletion.

This week I am sharing about enameling on gold, and overcoming the problem of oxidation.

I had a gentleman visit me recently who was working on a jewel that needed resizing and chipped enamel replaced. He had a plan, but he wanted me to verify that it was the right approach for success.

Hello Patsy,

I have a ring from a client with enamel that chipped. I am including pictures of the ring. I proceeded to remove the diamond setting plate from the ring in order to refire the piece. From prior experience, I’ve found that diamonds don’t do too well at the 1450 to 1500 degree range.

It was a pleasure to talk with you today. I’m glad you are willing to talk me through this repair. I wasn’t sure you would remember me since it’s been quite a few years since I spoke to you. You really helped me to be less afraid of doing this type of work.

I really appreciate your generosity in sharing your expertise.

Reviewing your approach looks great! You really have not lost too much enamel and to test to compare melting temperatures is right. The blue is so deep (it almost looks opaque) from the photos.

Have you thought of removing all of the enamel then there is no problem matching. With blues many times you do not need flux. But that is on fine silver, if you heat the ring part and it does not oxidise it is. You can use etch all and remove the enamel. Each day glass brush the melted particles off. It will take a couple of days. If you do not have any be sure to buy the liquid not paste.

This route I would prefer if I was doing this. You will not need to compare melting times and where there are tiny cracks, those enamel areas may not flow together while the new enamel flows. Depends on the original hardness of the enamel. I use Japanese enamels. They are softer.

I left the enamel plate in the ring mounting. It has been soldered in the frame, so to avoid it shifting during firing, because the solder will flow at the enamel firing temp, I laser welded the plate to the ring underneath. Something I need to practice more!

I found a transparent Prussian blue from Thompson that I was thinking of trying out as a match. I’m aware of the need to wash enamels and toss off the cloudy part in order to get the clearest transparent. I plan to do a test with a chip of the rings enamel along side the proposed color to check the melting temperatures. I do have hard and soft fluxes if needed to make sure the metal on the ring at the base of the enamel area is sealed and doesn’t oxidize during the first firing.

Anything you can think of that might help would be appreciated.

Yes Sir, your approach sounds great! You really have not lost too much enamel. Testing the broken off chips against the new enamel you ordered to compare melting temperatures is right. The blue is so deep (it almost looks opaque) from the photos…

I would prefer this route. You will not need to compare melting times… I mostly use Japanese enamels. They are softer.

We have a steel shot magnetic tumbler we use to clean up our raw castings. Do you think that is appropriate for enamel? I thought that medium might be too hard for the glass. But, I see you did mention H2O2 to clean off stainless steel residue. What type of tumbler have you used?

Steel shot magnetic tumbler — that’ll be fine. Mine has a speed control so I just don’t run it at the fastest speed. Yes, I mentioned after tumbling with a stainless steel, clean off the burnishing residue with the hydrogen peroxide…

Thank you so much Patsy,

There was another blue, a bit lighter that I also ordered, just in case it looks better. Never hurts to have lots of enamel…

Where do you get your Japanese enamels from?

Here is where I get my enamel. She has the Sayer and the Ninomiya…

The metal is 14k yellow gold. It will oxidize at enamel melting temps, though I haven’t heated this piece yet. Waiting for the colors to arrive…

Take care,

Yikes, 14k yellow gold! It sure looked like silver or white gold in the photographs. Okay, rethink this…

Good to know. There is exposed metal in the bottom of the enamel area. That’s a good tip to grind the enamel finer to get it to melt faster to cover the bottom.

Hi Patsy,

I did get that enamel repair done. I was able to use the Thompson Heron Blue, which was a pretty close match without having to remove the rest of the enamel…

Thank you again for your help and support.

Anytime. And if you enjoy these challenges let me know. I get request often but my focus is different these days. I can send them over.

Great job, Patsy.