Setting Your Enamels
I like to begin the setting with a finished piece of enamel that has a good girdle all around the edge as in a faceted stone. I believe it cuts down on the cracking during setting. If the enamel comes down and meets the fine silver or copper base plate at a sharp edge it is likely to crack. Thin enamel and soft metal after many firings, and you start applying pressure, you can imagine how easy it is to crack.
This piece is domed and you do not see the underside of enamel.
Tuff Break is a rubber product I purchase from Fred Woell. You can find his contact info in Resources. I like to place it under my enamel jewels. It adds protection to the counter enamel as well as the top of the enamel jewel, by giving the enamel piece a cushion which helps me avoid cracking the piece during this process. When I roll down the very top edge of the fine silver bezel the enamel jewel drops just a hair as I push down on the jewel, allowing me to avoid pressure right on the enamel surface. It also takes care of that tinny sound of the enamel against the back metal once the piece is complete.
After placing the rubber backing and the enamel jewel in the setting, it is time to close the bezel. Choosing a sterling silver base in this case I am using fine silver bezel wire 2.5 mm high and 26 ga thick. As a matter of choice I do not like to sand the bezel thin at the top. Leaving this edge as is allows me to remove the jewel if I ever need to. And with this thick bezel there is plenty of metal to sand out any dings.
My favorite burnisher is a wooden clothespin. As you can see here it sits flat on the table and parallel to my bezel wall.
With a snug fit between the enamel jewel and the wall of the bezel all that is needed here is a little tightening.
Applying pressure parallel to the girdle,
Working my way all the way around with light pressure.
And lastly just turning down the very top edge of the bezel with the clothespin.
Hi Patsy,
This is an old article so hopefully this comment reaches you 🙂 Even this many years later, your articles are still helping us new to enameling. Thank you!
I just ordered the Tough Break from you as my worry with bezel setting is cracking. I set stones but never a cloisonne piece. I’ve read everything I can find and watched videos but have only found a few comments regarding the bottom of the cloisonne and how it may crack. One video used the approach of making sure every inch of metal had enamel on it. She said use a magnifying glass and make sure no metal. However, your approach of leaving a good metal girdle at the bottom makes sense to me and the approach I am going to take. I did see another comment that said stop your wires 1/8 inch from the bottom so think this was doing the same as you suggest I believe.
With all that said, my question is…what about the counter enamel? It’s not hitting at a right angle but do you need to leave a metal edge which is what normally occurs anyway for me, or ensure you take the glass all the way to the edge. I’m thinking a metal edge would be the answer. I will test it out, but worry that it may crack down the road and not just when setting if I don’t get it right.
I hope I’m understanding this correctly since I’ve been doing Champleve with a thick silver rim and counter enameling on back. I like the idea of bezel setting to have a silver back over the counter enamel.
I guess I’m wondering if I’m understanding correctly also since I’ve been told enameling wants a stopping place if I stop 1/8 inch from the bottom isn’t there just a chance that that in itself will cause cracking?
Oh well, just trying to think thru it all, and again, this is something I will test but may not crack right off so want to do what I can to minimize the chances. Okay, when I start repeating myself, it’s time to stop and wait for an answer 🙂
Thank you again!
Debra
Hi Debra, Don’t worry, I will help out and draw a picture this afternoon. One I can say now this is all based on what I do. I do not stop 1/8 inch from edge. Think of it like a stone to set. There is a girdle, a flat area where the bezel makes contact on the outer edges of the stone. When pressure is placed here it keeps it from cracking. I have to be out today but will get back with a drawing to help you.
Take care, Patsy
Debra I have added 2 photos. The first one is showing you a stone girdle, this is what you create on the cloisonne enamel jewel before you set it. The second photo shows you the girdle on a cloisonne enamel jewel.You can see the top layers of enamel the fine silver center and the enamel counter enamel.
Thank you so much Patsy! The pics help, and I also received the rubber backing, so excited to try it. I also found where you had answered questions about this in 2010 that helped too: https://alohilanidesigns.com/setting-your-enamels/
This may help others that come across this article from 2013 later down the road.
Thanks again for your willingness to help us new to enameling!
Debra
First Image
Hi, Patsy
Re. Enamel settings. If you set in gold bezel (I am planning to use sterling base plate and gold bezel soldered to it). What gauge and gold would you suggest. Traditional 18K gold and 30 gauge is too stiff and there is a risk to crack enamel when pushing bezel down. I tried 24K gold bezel 32 gauge – it’s so soft, hardly maintains it’s shape and even touching it with your finger would leave dents on it. Maybe 22K gold 30 Gauge?
Another question – i don’t want to use 18G silver as a base plate, as pendant is becoming too heavy, tried 20G silver, but because it’s a large oval – it is warping during soldering. You have to heat from under the piece to avoid thin gold bezel melting and the silver plate is warping creating the dome in the middle. Any trick how to avoid warping?
Thank you, Patsy
Love your blog.
Nina
Nina, I would use 20 ga sterling silver for the base and 22 k bezel, 26- 28 ga.
If you can afford it use 26 ga! You can heat from bottom and top with tow torches or have it set up so silver is elevated and heat from top with silver solder.
Good Luck Patsy
Thank you, Patsy
Do you suggest to user silver solder?
Thank you, Patsy
Do you suggest to use silver solder to solder gold bezel to silver plate?
Yes, it flows at a lower temp than gold solder:)
Thank you, Patsy.
Congratulations on matilija poppy brooch. Good job!
It was sold for a very good price. Unique work.
Thank you!
Thanks Patsy! I usually use a bezel pusher in the beginning and then the metal burnisher at the end . The clothespin is a new idea for me! I will try it . The rubber backing is something I will look into as well, thank you so much ! I usually use plastic but rubber with a little give does sound like a great idea .
IMAGE LINK
This is a spinner w/both elements moving. When you blow on it the middle spins like a WhirlyGig and bigger one moves, which is why it’s not centered on a spot on the edge
Your spinner is really cool!
Glad you visited. I use to use metal, got tired of the clean-up after. The wood never scars.
Beautiful work, do you buy your bezel already made?
Hi Beatrice, yes usually I do. Once in a while there is a need to make it. I use Hauser and Miller for all my metal needs.
Thanks Patsy
Beautifuly and clearly explained. I too love to use clothpin.
Metal burnishers are way too harsh. I use them sometimes just to highlight the top of the bazel.
Thanks Patcy,
ora